Karl Zimmer’s Philmont Log

Travel to Albuquerque, NM went off without any problems.  “T”, our driver, met us at Albuquerque baggage claim in a stretch limo – large enough for all 13 and our gear!  Refreshments and cupcakes were complements of T and his fiancé.  This is a recommended service for anyone in need of transfer from Albuquerque to Philmont.

Scatter showers met us at camp.  Crew leader Jacob Zimmer checked in the crew, received tent assignments and instructions/directions regarding Base Camp.  Being we were one day early our Ranger meet and orientation would happen on Monday.  The crew moved equipment to assigned tents.

After dropping our gear we went to dinner where we met the T301/SDIC contingent crew.  They described an amazing time, all looked clean, healthy and in good spirits.  They shared tales of 75 mph winds summiting Mt. Baldy, multitude of wildlife, and tips for the trail.  After dinner the 813-A scouts discovered the Base Camp snack bar.

Base Camp is large and in constant motion; movement and processing of crews is incredibly organized.  The camp is well maintained.  The layout is planned and squared away.  Everything is kept neat and clean when considering this is a Boy Scout camp moving 25,000 scouts through each year.  Staff is friendly and helpful.  Staff antics and rituals are reminiscent of Lost Valley.  Regular chants, crew competitions for meal line position and funny stories are a regular part of each day.

Hot showers, Tooth of Time Trading Post, Snack Bar and the Dining Hall are creature comforts of Base Camp.  All are welcome luxuries and make this more like a ‘canvas wall’ resort and less like camping.

The morning temperature was comfortable (~60 F) and low humidity.  When the staff says “drink 6 liters of water a day” they are not far off even when not hiking with a pack.  High altitude and low humidity = “Drink Water”.

Orientation day included meeting our Ranger (Ranger Dan, more on Dan later), formal check in (form check, crew itinerary and logistics), medical re-check at the health lodge, also gear and provisions check out.

After lunch we toured the Villa Philamonte (Spanish for “my house is bigger than yours”).  This 18K sq. ft. gem was the mountain retreat of Waite and Genevieve Phillips, benefactors that donated the majority of the land, the cattle business and an endowment that launched Philturn Ranch in 1938.  Later it became Philmont when the full gift was given to BSA in 1941.  This mansion is incredible and well worth the time to visit.  Josh Solberg serenaded us (at the request of the docent) on the family piano in the living room.  The home is filled with 15^thcentury Spanish antiques and an overall Spanish motif to go with the southwestern heritage of New Mexico.  The gilded décor, ornate tile work, and painted ceiling beams and frescos abound.  The Phillips were visionaries and it shows in the amenities of this home – vey much state of the art for circa 1920.  The grounds are immaculately kept with sprawling lawns, manicured trees and shrubs, fountains, courtyards, flowering planter beds, etc.

Late afternoon our Ranger performed a pack check.  While backpacking essentials and methods are second nature to our well traveled crew it was helpful to go through what is an absolute necessity and what can be left at Base Camp.  Through Pack check the weather turned.  Wind picked up and thunderheads grew in the east and south.  We made it through dinner (steak – yum!) with only minor showers.

After dinner the Advisors and Crew Leaders attended a talk from the camp staff going over how to handle crew dynamics, rules in the back country, expected weather conditions, etc.  It really poured during the meeting (Advisors were warm and dry, but the rest of the crew were out in the weather). 

After the meeting distant lightning and rain in the east created an early evening show across the plains that we watched from the shelter at the Welcome Center.  The camp staff determined the opening campfire show – held out in the east meadow – was a go as the rain stopped and lightning was several miles off.  As the 100+ scouts and scouters made the half mile hike to the prairie stage the storm shifted directions.  Thunder and lightning bolts added drama to the show.  A live mandolin player provided background music as a Native American, the proprietor of the James Hotel (circa 1850 in Cimarron), Kit Carson, Waite Phillips, and others told their tale.  Unfortunately the encroaching storm cut the show short.  Everyone quickly moved from the open prairie back to shelter at Base Camp as the skies opened up.   Rain poured and lightning danced off the Tooth of Time and other nearby peaks.  The weather was fascinating and terrifying at the same time.  High winds, pouring rain and lightning punished camp for 2+ hours.  Many took cover at the Welcome Center, others dove into tents for the night.  Our 301 scouts went out in search of popcorn and ice cream.

The storm dissipated in the middle of the night setting up what looked like a pattern in the days to come.

Crew 813A was up early and some took advantage of the last day of hot showers.  The weather is warm (60 F) and dry, the rivers running through Base Camp last night are nearly dry.  Our last dining hall meal was a breakfast of biscuits and sausage gravy, chicken fried steak fingers and hashed potatoes.  Opinions ran the gamut on the quality of the meal.

Checking out of camp includes tent inspections, stuffing all non-trail gear in assigned lockers, placing valuables in a safety deposit box.  A short bus ride of 30 minutes – Power Ranger Dan came to life on this ride starting his trail teaching and history of Philmont and Cimarron.

The bus dropped us at Turkey Creek Turnaround.  Lieutenant Dan continued training with lightning management in open country.  We spent a extended and entertaining time learning how to manage bathroom matters.  Dan the Man explained how to relieve oneself using a cat hole and various positions including the Tree Lean, Power Squat, Pilot to Bombardier, Orangutan Hang, and the Cliff Hanger.  Danimal’s fixation in this matter would continue throughout his time with the Crew.

The trail to Vaca started in Gamble Oak groves.  Dan pointed out these trees are the tallest known (~30 feet) due to the lack of fire in the area for many years.  As a scrub oak it does no typically get higher than 6-10 feet.  Unfortunately the area is overdue for fire.

The trail rose through Juniper, Douglas Fir, Spruce and Ponderosa Pine trees.  The pines provided a hint of butterscotch.  Strands of Silver Sage yield an incredible scent – more aromatic than any other Sage I have smelled.  Lunch was on the trail – crackers and jalapeno squeeze cheese and other high carb snacks.

We have arrived at Vaca early afternoon.  Camp consists of forest surrounding a tree spotted meadow, solar water pump and campsites just off the meadow in the trees.  Instruction from Danger Dan taught us the ritual for each campsite; bear bags first, then tents and dining fly in this order.  Ranger Dan showed us the ropes on bear bags.  True to form, Ranger Dan spent a good portion of time on the red Roof Inn (latrine) protocol.  Instruction on the use of the composting pit was given once all ten scouts and Dan were in one of the two stalls.  Instruction in the stall went a good 15 minutes with all remaining inside.  Post Red Roof sanitary instruction included a graphic and raucous rating scale of one’s business from 1 to 10 and the sanitary consequences of each.  Also social etiquette regarding which count bestowed bragging rights.  ‘Nuff said.

Late afternoon was off to Harlan to attend Shotgun program before it closed for the day.  We made the ‘Ranger Mile’ hike in time but Mother Nature had other plans.  Pouring rain shut down the range however camp staff allowed us to load our own shells to shoot the next day.  All went about loading shells – a good rainy day task inside the shotgun cabin.

Rain let up quickly.  We had carried or dinner and cooking supplies to Harlan and asked permission from camp staff to use an unoccupied campsite for dinner.  Dan cooked and cleaned for the crew giving instruction on Philmont methods of preparing “Phil Food”.  The Mexican entrée was agreeable to all.  The crew rushed to clean up dinner and break our make-shift camp in time for burro racing at the Harlan Downs.  This is a crazy event where each crew is given a burro to race up a 150 yard sloping meadow, around a pylon and back.  Apparently in the past the animals are not as cooperative and take some coaxing to make the course – not so this year.  Burros were out running scouts holding the rope – some scouts could barely hold on to their steed, others let go as the burro veered off through adjacent crews, and other somersaulting next to burros and falling down in a failed attempt to keep up.  All ended the race laughing and wanting to do it again.  Even the burros seemed entertained.

The hike back to Vaca was quick.  Dan grew weary of T301’s unbearable and grizzly puns.  Soon he was in on the word play with all of us.  Dan gave more ranger instruction that evening – using the crew as examples.  His scenarios habitually had Josh faceless due to careless activities and Andrew as a bag of skin and broken bones for not reacting to Josh’s situation appropriately.  We learned importing things such as “hydrate or die-drate” and “If you look good, we all look good, and when we all look goo I look good”.   Also other important Ranger teaching moments from Dan.

Night time at Vaca was dry and clear.  The Milky Way was prominent in the sky, no moon in the early evening sky.  All were in tents and in good spirits.  From each tent could be heard “Good Job Jacob” from all scouts ala “The Waltons”.

Pre dawn was warm.  A fingernail moon hung low in the east.  Oddly enough the moon directly over the Red Roof Inn flanked by the outline of pines made a picturesque scene.  Everyone worked hard to break camp quickly and eat a cooked breakfast of eggs, sausage, peppers and potatoes.  We learned Ranger Dan is not a morning person.  He stared with a long face at the only pot T301 brought cooking eggs.  No way to boil water for coffee made Dan an unhappy camper.  But he displayed a positive attitude and we hiked on towards Devils Wash Basin.

Our first stop that day was back at Harlan for program and our Conservation Project.  The Shotgun range was ¼ mile below the camp staff area and Harlan Downs.  Scouts did well shooting, most bought extra rounds.  Most scouts hit one or more clays using over-under break-breach 12 gauge shotguns.  Lots of fun.

After shotgun we hiked further out of Harlan to an area where trail construction is underway.  For our project, which is required for the Wilderness Pledge award, we were assigned to short sections of trail.  The crew split into “Rock” and “Stump”.  Rock spent three hours with sledge hammers cutting down boulders sticking up into the path.  Stump set at removing two oak stumps in the trail’s planned path.  The project ranger was pleased with our progress after three hours of work.

We returned to the central work site, put our tools away and hiked back to Harlan where our packs were stowed.  Everyone topped off water and we headed for Devil’s Wash Basin.

The hike to Devil’s Wash Basin was only a few miles but incredibly steep and mostly uphill.  It reminded me of our Troop hikes through the steeper parts of Mission Trails.  When anyone asked Ranger Dan “how much further?” he always responded the same; after a pensive moment the answer is “about one Ranger mile”.  No one ever figured out the precise measurement of this distance.

Several deer were seen, some with impressively huge racks.  None seemed too concerned with us.  Ms. Hauschildt found a horny toad on the trail.  After hearing from Ranger Dan that they are very rare, we found a second one 300 feet down the trail.

Devils Wash Basin is a dry camp (no water source).  The name, steep trail, and no water did not paint a favorable picture before arriving.   Upon arrival it turned out to be a beautiful meadow camp.  The meadow is circular, ¼ mile in diameter, and bowl shaped.  This forms a vernal lake that produces a damp meadow in August.  Scat from every kind of animal proved this was a place for eating sedges and grasses and getting a drink in the small wet area at the center.  Several deer came through in the evening – we even found a salamander in the damp grass.  I really liked this meadow camp.

We pitched camp in a driving rain.  The scouts put up bear bags with Ranger Dan and the Advisors pitched the dining fly before the heaviest weather came.  Some of us sat under the fly and watched the scouts finish bear bags in a downpour.  Rain subsided after 20 to 30 minutes.

Dinner was Lasagna prepared by Jacob and Josh, it was a good warm meal.  While dinner was cleaned up Jacob, Josh, Jake, Dylan, Mr. Zimmer and Ranger Dan hiked ¾ of a mile to Deer Lake Mesa where there is a non-potable water source.  We filled and purified 28 liters and packed it up.  Ranger Dan then took us off trail to a spot he knew close by.  After ½ mile of steep uphill through scrub oak and boulders we arrived at a rock ledge at the summit of an unnamed rise near Deer Lake Mesa.  The view to the south and west was phenomenal.  We could see the Tooth of Time to the south-south east and two large peaks off to the west.  After five minutes at the peak we hiked back to camp.

Meanwhile Dr. Bryon and the rest of the crew hiked up the ride outside Devil’s Wash Basin to catch a similar view.

Once all were back in camp Ranger Dan gave final instruction on first aid and other topics.  Then he asked us all to follow him out to the meadow.  We sat forming a circle, the sky was solid stars and once again the Milky Way was in clear view.  We did our ritual Roses, Thorns and Buds then Dan gave an incredible talk on the Philmont experience, lessons of leadership, his desires for our trek, his wishes for our future, and presented the Philmont Wilderness Pledge to each of us.  I could not do justice to Dan’s talk even if I knew it was coming and tried to memorize it.

He started with a silent moment where we just listened and observed nature around us.  “Listen to nature and realize where you are.  Realize how special this place is.  I want to come back to Philmont.  When not here I think about when I will return.  Read the Pledge card and commit to following the five points pledging preservation and splendor of Philmont.  Then pledge to come back to this place.  Sign this card as your pledge.  But do not sign it tonight or tomorrow or on your way home from Philmont.  Read it again several months from now and sign it then.  And commit to return to this place.”

Ranger Dan then turned to Jacob as the crew lead and explained his responsibility for the week.  He asked all in the crew to support him and his decisions.  Ranger Dan talked about leadership: “A leader takes care of the needs of his crew firs, only then can the leader’s needs be fulfilled.”  Ranger Dan told us the lesson his late father shared with him.  “I see young men in all of you.  You are growing from boys to men.  The difference between a boy and a man is a man thinks before acting.”

Ranger Dan shared a final gift with us – a pound cake and a can of icing he carried for two days for us to enjoy!  We finished the evening eating cake and icing while looking at the stars.

Afterwards we retired to our tents; damp, tired and with a great day behind us.

Up at 5:30 AM.  A strange noise and snorting from the ridge above the meadow – pack animal or something else?  Skys were clear but the meadow was damp.  Ranger Dan was leaving us that morning, as a treat we boiled water for morning coffee.  He seemed to appreciate that.

Camp tear down and a cold breakfast went quick.  We said goodbye to Dan and headed down the trail to Ute Gulch. 

Ranger Dan was sorely missed by the entire crew.  The scouts had schemed the night before regarding how to keep him on the trail with us; tell Base Camp we are not ready to hike alone, don’t sign the mandatory Ranger training card, etc.  Unfortunately we had to part ways.  His stories, help and tall tales will be missed.  No longer will we hike with the winner of the Ranger of the Week (go to Philmont and you will understand the significance of the award) or hear how all the sump pipes in the back country run to the Villa Philamonte and water the grass (per Dan there was a 60 Minutes segment done on the history of the area that talks about this fact).

The trail to Ute Gulch climbed part of Deer Mesa giving views to the south and west we enjoyed the evening prior.  Then down the valley a few miles to the commissary at Ute Gulch.  This stop was a food pickup only.  The back country commissary has metal mesh several feet up the side of the wood siding.  Later we learned this mesh is electrified to keep the bears from attempting a break in.   The crew picked up meals and other supplies (purification tablets, toilet paper, ziplocks), made a quick pass through the trading post, took advantage of fresh fruit and milk the commissary handed out to all takers, topped off water (potable) and hit the trail for SawMill.

Ute Gulch to SawMill is a gorgeous hike.  It meanders through a canyon lined with rock cliffs and filled with conifers, oaks and aspen.  Plenty of wildflowers grow here – sneezeweed, monk’s hood, asters, skyrockets and other stunning species.  The area reminded me of mountain lion territory; plenty of rock overhangs and overhead deadfalls making a perfect perch for an ambush.  Fortunately there were no felines on this hike, only a multitude of very friendly mini-bears looking for a hand out or unguarded packs.  We caught up to two crews that left Ute Gulch some time before us.  In time we passed both as they took a break.

We arrived in SawMill in the early afternoon (~1:15 PM).  The staff cabin is perched up high at the end of a long valley.  The view from the porch is unbelievable.  True to form in Philmont, this was a first class camp.  The staff greeted us and wasted no time getting us into program – .30-06 shooting.  First stop was ammunition re-loading where all shooters re-load their own rounds.  As we entered the rifle re-load cabin the rain started and came down hard.  After finishing ammunition we assumed shooting was scrubbed due to the rain.  We underestimated SawMill – their shooting range is an unbelievable structure where all firing positions are under shelter.  Camp staff sent us off to the range in a full deluge.  The range is a 1/3 mile hike up a steep hill.  During our drudge up the hill rain shifted to hail, then back to driving rain.  The steel trail turned quickly into a river.  With soaked feet we made it to the range.

The range is an incredible structure – fully roofed shooting positions and observation deck.  It made a nice place to wait out a heavy storm.  The range is ~150 yards long with an upslope and high valley walls as a backstop.  During instruction the rain ceased.  The range master allowed all to put out targets and the range was littered with hats and handkerchiefs for sport shooting.  A .30-06 is a big gun.  Ther is no comparison between .30-06 and the .22 rifle shooting done a previous summer camps.  Hitting a target destroyed it rather than putting a clean hole in it.  The scouts had a good time.

After shooting we hiked back to staff cabin to pick up packs.  Heading down slope without rain made the hike down easier.  We put on packs and were escorted to our cam by a staffer.  All campsites are ¼ mile up the steep slope from staff cabin – not fun with a full pack.

Rain commenced again as we arrived in our campsite.  We pitched the dining fly and a group formed under it to plan our route for the next day.  SawMill shower house was next to our campsite so the scouts grabbed cards and want to the covered wash porch for shelter.  Card playing was accompanied by a wash board and pail band.  Kevin applied his musical talents and produced an impressive percussion beat.

The rain stopped around 4 PM and we took this break to pitch tents.  Some washed clothes and a few showered.  Showers were cold but not Yosemite river/lake-bath cold.

Dinner was prepared by Craig and Duncan – Chili Mac.  It was delicious, mildly spicy, cooked thoroughly and warm.

After dinner most went down the slope to staff area.  Scouts participated in Gun Yoga class put on by a staffer.  Scouts enjoyed this immensely and called it out at that day’s (Guns and) Roses, Buds and Thorns.  Advisors went to the staff cabin porch for Advisors coffee.  The staff is incredible – as soon as we walked onto the porch several staff left their dinner to come out and visit with us.  The view from the porch was only outdone by the fellowship shared with the staffers.

After Gun Yoga the scouts stayed to help clean rifles and the Advisors went back to camp.  All returned and went to bed by 9:30 PM.  As I write this I hear two scouts talking outside my tent “I miss Ranger Dan so much”.

Up at 5:30 AM.  No rain over night but a good amount of wind.  Our gear was drier but still damp.  The crew was hiking by 7:15 AM.

The trail from SawMill to today’s destination (Cypher’s Mine) passed through Thunder Ridge.  The trail gained elevation the entire route.  Spectacular view of Mt. Baldy and other tall peaks came to view.  We passed through Thunder Ridge around 9:15 and after a 20 minute break headed to Cypher’s Mine.  Along the day’s route we traversed beautiful stands of Aspen, saw a doe and her fawn.  The pace was brisk and all kept up.  We arrived at Cypher’s Mine before 10:30.  This camp is another gem.  It is intentionally rustic promoting the mining and prospecting theme.  We passed an impressive layout of circa 1850 to 1900 mining equipment and prospecting scouts in the river.  Staff was friendly and quick to check us in.  They offered to take us immediately to program or allow us an hour to set up camp.  We opted for 11:45 blacksmith session and a 1:30 mine tour.

No tents in Cyper’s Mine – each crew is given a muck cabin.  A muck cabin is an elevated platform 20’x20’ with three walls and an extended roof over the 4^thopen side.  It comfortably sleeps 11 (could fit more but cramped), so Dr. B and Mr. Z pitched tents.

After setting up camp we grabbed our lunch and headed to the foundry (200 feet from our cabin).  We ate a lunch of canned ham while staffer Stuart gave instruction and bought us two at a time into the foundry to make candle holders.  Eating lunch while watching crew members forge was a great way to eat and do program.

Strait from forge to mine shaft tour.  Stuart lead the tour with the assistance of a staff geologist.  He went over the geological formation of the area, how gold, copper and other minerals are formed, and why the gold in this area is ore (versus nuggets at French Henry Mine) due to chemical transformation of minerals into solution.  He showed us several types of rocks and ore in the area, how they form and where they are found (follow fluorite to gold, galena is led ore, etc.).   After instruction Stu lead us into the mine.  All were fitted with bump caps and we entered the Contention mine.  The entrance was narrow and low lined with 10”x10” timbers.  We could see the difference in the rock on the left and right side of the shaft as the miners followed the rock seam.  The geologist showed us where two tectonic plates meet and other interesting formations.  Stu demonstrated how the mine was built by hand drilling with sledge hammer and dynamite.  Incredibly hard and dangerous work.

Stu lead us into the back of the mine to finish the tour.  Then he asked if we wanted to scramble out of the mine with no lights.  The crew was up for the challenge to feel their way ~750 feet in total darkness.  Stu lead us for 50 feet then proceeded to sprint ahead and leave us on our own with our crew lead in front.  Stu tormented us by making strange noises and scaring passersby.  All made it out with smiles from an adventure completed.

The mine tour finished ~2 PM and the afternoon down pour began.  It rained long and hard, seemingly the hardest rain of our trek.  We quickly made way into our muck cabin as marble sized hail came down.  Hail and rain continued for two hours while the crew relaxed in our dry muck cabin with a great view of the storm.  Duncan received his wish for the trip – to watch a raging thunderstorm – he did not want it to stop.  The crew passed the time playing cards and taking cat naps, reading, creating “The Most Interesting Ranger in Philmont” tales, and journaling.  Most slid down into their sleeping bag at one point to keep warm.

The scouts in crew 813-A felt awful for other crews coming off the trail during the deluge.  Later we found out staff was giving out hot coffee and cocoa to all arriving in the rain.  A nice touch.

After the rain let up Dario and Master Todd prepared a dinner of chicken rice and peas.  Salty but warm and tasty.  At 7 PM advisors went to Staff Camp for Advisors coffee.  Cyphers Mine must have been full as there were ~20 advisors on the porch.  Staff did a wonderful job of hosting the social – fellowship once again shared by Rangers and Staff.  We met a Ranger that was trekking with a crew due to an Advisor being taken off the trail.  The Ranger completed the Advisor requirements so the crew with the fallen leader could continue.

At 8 PM the Stomp program was presented in a very rustic mining shack.  The entire camp jammed into a 20’x40’ room with a stage 5’ wide at the front of the cabin.  It was standing room only with 100+ jammed inside.  The performers used a window at the back of the stage to enter and exit adding to the comedy of the performance.  Parts of some scene actually took place outside the window (bear mauling and other exaggerated antics).  The show took every advantage of the setting.  The room was lit by three kerosene lanterns giving the feel of a turn of the century gathering in a mining camp.  Stop told a comical tale of Wild Bill Jones and the menache (Spanish for menace).  Bill Jones was said to be one of many that lived in the area at that time and became part of folklore.

The show consists of guitar, banjo and violin music, animated and comical acting describing one folk tale of the time.  The performance was excellent in all aspects and thoroughly entertained the audience.  

At the conclusion of the performance all but Dr. B and Josh went back to camp for Roses, Buds and Thorns then off to bed.  Dr. B and Josh returned and proclaimed banjo/fiddle after show as the best part.  All were in bet and quiet by 10:15 PM.

Up at 5:30 AM to get an early start hiking.  Three program activities planned – Hunting Cabin, Rock Climbing, and Repelling.  All in the muck cabin woke up dry with no tent to break down.  Dr. B and Mr. Z had wet muddy tents but easily manageable.  We broke camp, ate breakfast and started hiking by 7:30 AM.  Our itinerary took us through Hunting Cabin, Cimarroncito then camp at Aspen Springs.  The trail to Hunting Cabin followed the North fork of Cimarroncito Creek.  The trail made numerous crossings on hewn logs or neatly placed boulders.  Some crossings were a single log, others were double.  Dr. B decided he liked “double-wides’ better.  We followed the creek downstream.  The valley has nice flora; various plants in the sunflower family, 5+ foot high Monkshood, a variety of geranium, yampah, sky rocket, cow’s parsnip, and numerous others.  The early morning light at a low angle provided dappled light in gold hews through the aspens.  It was a beautiful walk through a cool shaded garden along a babbling stream.

Hunting Cabin was our first stop.  This cabin was built around 1930 and is one of three structures Waite Phillips built in the back country.  Originally meant for overnight trips with his family, they never stayed in it.  Because it was a short (10 mile) horse ride from Villa Philamonte they used it for day trips and allowed guests to stay in it.  The cabin has two bedrooms, kitchen, dining room and sitting room.  It is spacious and comfortable sleep six.  An engineer named Webster helped build the cabin with rodent proof storage and bear proof doors (there were grizzly bears in this area in 1930).  Trophy animal heads fill the rooms, most from the area.  The dining room has a wood burning stove for heat.  The guest bedroom and sitting area share the same massive stone chimney.  All stone and wood was taken from the area for its construction.  The cabin is still furnished with the original furniture and fixtures.  Many pieces in the cabin have a story that was shared by the docent.

We topped off our water bottles and headed to Cimarroncito.  The trail from Hunting Cabin to Cimarroncito leaves the river and rises for one mile along a wide meadow.  About ¼ mile from staff cabin at Cimarroncito, the staff greeting started.  They welcomed us and beckoned us in for the last 10 minutes of the hike.  Staff was typically hospitable.  The program workers are all about climbing.  The young woman that checked us in had “ear-abineers” – carabineers through her pierced ears.  The live the climbing culture here.  Very nice people.

We signed up for a 12:45 climbing slot which gave us 1.5 hours to eat lunch and set out wet items to dry.  Two advisors grabbed a 15 minute nap.  The scouts tried their skills at bouldering on an outdoor climbing wall 12 feet high and 50 feet long.  Anyone capable of traversing one side of the wall, transitioning to the back side and returning to where they started without touching the ground could sign the wall.  Less than 12 have met the challenge in the years it has been there.

Rock climbing was done on the ridge adjacent to the camp.  After a long hike up a steep hill the granite incline goes nearly vertical for 50 to 100 feet.  All were suited with climbing harnesses and helmets.  After instruction we were given three routes to try – “Turtles Head” (6.5), “Don’t Touch the Tree” (8.0), and one other route that was more difficult (crack climbing).  All routes took climbers up 40 to 50 feet to the ridge.  The view is spectacular.  The green grass plains by Base Camp are seen to the east, Tooth of Time to the south, and a great view across the valley to the west and the range beyond.  Climbers traversed this narrow ridge for ~150 feet to a repelling station then repelled 60-70 feet.  A fun and heart racing experience for these of us who never before climbed or repelled outside an indoor facility.

After climbing, most took advantage of hot showers at Cimarroncito before we hiked the final ½ mile to our camp in Aspen Springs.  The trail winds next to the granite outcropping we climbed.  The camp has several granite outcropping from the pine forest that comprised camp sites.  We picked one with a large granite wall on one side.  It reminded us of Glen Aulin in Yosemite.  Bear bags, tents and dining fly were fixed.  We tried a new method of rigging the fly based on observation of two other crews.  This system raises the center of the fly like a circus tent and fixes the sides high enough to walk under.  It gives a larger meeting/cooking/pack area under shelter and within Philmont LNT policy.  It worked well and came in handy later in the evening.  A dinner of spaghetti with meat sauce was prepared by Duncan and CJ.

After dinner we buttoned up camp, grabbed our essentials and headed back to Cimarroncito for Advisory Coffee and a look at the indoor bouldering facility.  One very large cabin had been converted into an indoor bouldering station (Cimarroncito was the Base Camp for Philturn Scout Camp so there are many large and developed facilities – all rustic in appearance).  The facility had every wall mounted with hand holds from floor to ceiling for bouldering.  Several internal walls set six feet apart made it possible to traverse around corners, across passage ways, even upside down on the ceiling.  The entire floor was a soft safety mat.  The facility blasted Top 40 and other current music.  There is also a large area for shoe check out that includes tables used for card and board games.  While the scouts tested their skills a thunderstorm parked immediately overhead.  Staff was kind enough to keep the facility open well past the 8 PM closing time until the storm moved off.  Some scouts continued bouldering while others played cards with advisors.  The storm finally subsided and we donned rain gear for the hike back to Aspen Springs in the dark.  We arrived in camp around 10 PM, ran our Oops bag up the bear cable, found all tents to be dry and went off to bed.

The crew wake up time was set for 6 AM.  30 minutes prior Mr. Z, Jacob and Dylan went for a short hike to the top of the granite outcrop next to camp.  The view was from tree top level, about ½ mile to the southwest we could see the ridge we climbed at Cimarroncito.  Several other granite outcrops rose higher to the north and west.  We were looking down through the trees at our camp and observing the knurled and twisted trees living on top of the granite.  Our camp was stirring so we climbed back down to break camp and eat breakfast.  Tents and fly were soaked due to last night’s rain.  All were rolled up wet.  We hit the trail at ~7:20 AM.  The crew decided to take the medium distance route of three possible routes to Cito Turn Around, our pick up point.

Our hike was rushed that day as we wanted to make sure our arrival at Cito Turn Around was on time for the 10:15 bus pick up.  The trail went across Hidden Valley.  It is a long meadow we traversed upslope.  At the end of the meadow the trail wound through giant boulders then a steep ascent along a granite ridge.   The map identified Window rock in this area, the crew was not sure if this described a specific rock formation or a place name for the ridge.  Regardless it was a fantastic view.  The crew took one or two short side trails to the ridge to take in the view to the east and southeast.  It was a stunning view of the drop from the mountains back to the plains.  The Tooth of Time was clearly visible to the southeast, two lakes (Cimarroncito and Webster, aka Victoria) below us.  Our crew leader pointed out our rendezvous point 1,000 feet below and several trail miles (aka one Ranger Mile) away.  Consequently we kept our time on the ridge short, grabbed a few group photos with the sun low in the east and moved on.

The hike down from Window Rock switch backed downhill to the west losing altitude quickly but heading further from our destination to the east.  Our pace was quick and we still had time however Jacob and Dr. B were concerned that a mishap or wrong turn at a fork would eliminate any time cushion on our 10:15 rendezvous.

As the trail dropped cacti and yuccas dotted the forest and the alpine flora slowly disappeared. The trail left the mountain slopes at the west edge of Cimarroncito Reservoir (aka Victoria).  As we hooked east along the south side of the lake we passed through a demonstration forest.  Several placards described the forest management techniques used in each section – the crew kept moving in lieu of reading but could see the difference in clear cut and other management methods.  The trail turned due east running nearly a straight line to Cito Turnaround.  We arrived 40 minutes prior to our pick up time.  Our sister crew, which we rarely saw during our trek, was on the bus as they took the short route that morning.  We quickly loaded and headed back to Base Camp.  The ride in completed the final decent from the mountain back country to the plains.  We passed open land where pronghorn antelope, deer and a herd of burros were grazing.  A flock of turkeys added excitement as the driver braked unexpectedly to miss them.

10:15 AM – back at Base Camp our crew lead and senior advisor checked us in and secured tent assignments on the Homebound side of camp.  The crew moved gear to tents and took advantage of the late morning sun to dry out everything.  Wet tents and dining fly, rain gear and other soaked items were hung on a clothesline ran by Dr. B over the top of our tents.  All pack contents were opened and/or laid out to drive out residual dampness.  To our advantage the morning was worm and dry but we could see the clouds building early and wanted this done before any PM rain could move in.

After laying out our gear it was lunch time.  Hot dogs, beans, Sun Chips, a cereal Rice Krispie treat, fresh fruit, salad bar and multiple drink selections was a welcome treat.  After lunch the crew visited the Tooth of Time Traders to purchase patches, souvenirs, and pick out the common crew T-shirt.  Parallel with these activities Jacob and Dr. B went to logistics, HQ for security deposit pickup and retrieved our keys for the crew lockers.  The crew emptied the lockers, turned in checked out equipment, and headed back to tents for hot showers.

After showers the crew caught the 3:00 PM bus to Cimarron.  Cimarron rolls up the sidewalks on Sundays – fortunately the “Knife and Serape” shop was open.  The scouts picked through the end of season inventory and purchased a few souvenirs.

The pizza shop was closed so all went to the Cimarron Art Gallery – an antique soda fountain that also sells art, Wood Badge items and has an impressive Council and OA Lodge patch collection from across the country.  This store is certainly a friend of scouting.  Scouts lined up at the soda fountain bar and had a dairy treat.

Afterwards the crew split up, half went back to Base Camp on the next bus, and others headed off in search of hamburgers – successfully finding the CREE-MEE.

Souts at Base Camp played cards at the welcome center until dinner time.  Mr. Z and Ms. H walked over to the Seton Library and Museum.  The Seton Museum is a worthwhile way to pass time at Base Camp.  On section focuses on Powell, Seton and Beard and the formation of BSA.  Another section went through the history of Philmont, and the final section displayed Indian artifacts and history from the area.  The north wing is dedicated entirely to Ernest Thompson Seton displaying his wildlife oil paintings, animal trophy mounts, and a library of his works as well as historical BSA documents.

Dinner at the dining hall, for those with an appetite, was BBQ chicken, snow peas and carrots, scalloped potatoes.  Another welcome meal that was not ate from a bag sitting on a rock or log.

After dinner the crew members attended one of several church services.  At the Catholic service 301 scouts provided Chaplan’s Aid services; Jacob Z and Dylan performed the readings, Jake Todd and Craig B performed collection, Mr. Z and Andrew presented the offering.

That evening was closing campfire show.  The show was held at a permanent stage area ½ mile outside of Base Camp under the shadow of the Tooth of Time.  The show was much enjoyed, poked fun at trekker’s use of LNT behavior when back home (looking for swap box at Taco Bell, looking for rocks in the parking lot, tearing catsup packages in one piece, etc.).  The guitar player and vocalist were professional grade.  The show featured a clay-mation movie of Philmont, “New Mexico Rain” song, “Tooth of Time (Been Chewing on Me)” song (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhdKDYjMMps), and other Phil-favorites.

After the show T301 find the Snack Shop one last time, decided a wake up time for the next day and called it a day.

 Breakfast at the Dining Hall, pictures at the Philmont entrance and our ride back to Albuquerque swept us off to the airport.  Travel home went off with no major incidents  All were greeted by family at the San Diego airport and started a constant stream of stories describing our adventures.  I want to come back to Philmont!